Growing fruit trees indoors is very rewarding and easy to do and they are a real treat for the senses – their lush foliage and pretty blossoms are exceptionally attractive, they offer a wonderfully fresh aroma, and they bear healthy fresh fruit that you and your family can enjoy eating.
There are a number of reasons why people grow fruit trees in containers indoors, including poor soil, inappropriate climate or the lack of sufficient space as is often the case if you live in an apartment or a townhouse. However, perhaps one of the main reasons is that fruit trees in containers are portable, and you can take them with you when you move house. Portability also means that you are able to grow tropical and subtropical fruits even if you live in a climate that is too cold or features too much frost. In these cases, the mobility of the trees allows the plant to be moved indoors during periods of predicted freezing temperatures and frost.
There are many different varieties of fruit trees that can be grown in containers, including lemon, lime, dwarf orange, kumquat, avocado, dwarf banana, papaya, dwarf apple, guava, dwarf grapefruit, dwarf peach and fig trees to name just few. If they are well looked after and maintained, the majority of these trees will bear fruit. The containers they are grown in can comprise any material, including plastic, metal, clay, ceramic, wood or any others normally available at nurseries and garden supply stores. The size of the pot will dictate the size of the tree, and it is essential that each container has adequate holes at the bottom to drain excess water.
Potting
To prevent the soil from washing out, cover the drainage holes with plastic mesh. Then put in a 2cm to 5cm layer of gravel to aid in drainage. Commercially available potting soil is a great option to fill up the pot, however, you can make your own by mixing 1 part sand, 1 part peat and 1 part bark or vermiculite. The soil must be loose enough to promote adequate drainage, but also compact enough to avoid excessive water loss.
When transplanting, examine the root system of the plant and if it has experienced severe root crowding in its last container, then carefully prune some of the larger roots and loosen others to assist in root proliferation in the new container. Partially fill the container with soil, then place the plant in the pot, to its correct planting depth, and then fill until it is around 2cm to 10cm below the rim to allow for watering. Firm the soil around the plant with your hands and then water thoroughly. Until new growth has started, do not fertilise the plant.
Light
Fruit trees ought to be placed in a position where they receive the maximum daily sunlight possible, as their growth will be directly proportional to the amount of sunlight they receive. Avoid rapid changes in light exposure – for example, plants that have been growing in partial shade should not be suddenly exposed to complete, direct sunlight. Plants that have been grown indoors ought to be gradually introduced to the outdoor light, and given some time to acclimatise to it, and vice versa for outdoor plants being moved indoors.
Water
Correct watering practices are absolutely vital for any container gardening, and growing fruit trees in containers is no exception. It is vital to only water potted plants when they need it, as over watering can quickly lead to their demise. The frequency of watering will largely depend on the type and size of the container, the temperature, humidity levels, potting medium and other factors. The general rule of thumb is that the upper surface of the soil should be dry to the touch before watering again. Then you can water thoroughly by slowly filling the container. Remember that cool weather generally reduces a plant’s need for moisture, so they can be watered less frequently during the colder months.
Fertiliser
Fertilising is essential for successful container-grown fruit trees, however, be sure not to over fertilise, as this can lead to overgrowth, poor fruit and possible death due to salt accumulation. A wide variety of fertilisers can be used, as long as they are complete and balanced – it ought to contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in balanced proportions and should include lesser amounts or traces of magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc and copper. Excess salt accumulation, caused by over fertilisation, can be diagnosed by the appearance of white crust on the soil or container. Should this occur, then it is advisable to leach the container by slowly running water through the container for several minutes, which will wash out any excess salts.
Pruning
It is important to cut back any “twiggy” bits in order to promote bushiness and branching. Often, the top of the plant will grow disproportionately large in comparison to its root system, and it will consequently require further pruning. These plants will need to be heavily pruned back during their dormant months, when there are no buds visible on the branches. For example, citrus trees that bear fruit in winter need to be pruned during the summer months, and vice versa for summer-fruit-bearing trees. Remember that when plants are drastically pruned, they will require less fertiliser and water due to the reduced size of the plant.
Fruitfulness
Most fruit trees will bear fruit if they are adequately looked after, however don’t expect big crops from naturally large trees as the amount of fruit produced will be directly proportionate to the size of the container – the bigger the container, the more fruit the tree growing in it will produce. Also bear in mind that some fruit trees require the presence of pollenizer cultivars and pollinating insects to bear fruit. – Antonella Desi
Readers' Comments Have a comment about this article? Email us now.
This is a fantastic idea! We are developing a garden which is south facing, so this will be ideal to have the plants indoors rather. Will def give it a go. - Tks Sandey
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