The space under your sink usually ends up as a dumping ground for all sorts of odds and ends. Adding pull-out storage compartments allows you to not only store more, but have easy access to everything you need.
What you need
2 of 19 x 184 x 385mm pine - drawer front / back
1 of 19 x 184 x 500mm pine - drawer high side (against cabinet sides)
1 of 19 x 89 x 500mm pine - drawer low side
1 of 385 x 460 x 12mm plywood - drawer base
Offcuts for drawer supports
450mm ball-bearing drawer runners and 16mm screws
Woodoc interior sealer and p aintbrush
Tools
Drill/driver plus assorted bits
Jigsaw plus clean-cut blade
Tape measure and pencil
Here’s how
1. Not all under sink spaces are going to be the same, so measure the space you have to work with and be sure to allow for pipes or fittings. Most cabinets are 550mm deep and these drawers have a maximum depth of 500mm. Also allow for the distance a drawer will have to be out from the cupboard sides to clear the hinges.
2. Your drawer sizes will depend on the available space. For this project, the most practical drawer design has an angled front and back to allow for the sink fittings but still be as wide as possible, with a high side to hold high containers. Have your pieces cut to size at your local Builders, or cut the pieces using a jigsaw.
3. Drill 3mm countersunk pilot holes to join the sections together using wood glue and some screws, attaching the frame to the plywood base. On the visible front face use glue only so that there are no screws visible. Clamp these together until the glue dries, or use a pockethole jig or biscuit joiner to secure.
4. Assemble any additional drawers and sand them down before applying Woodoc interior sealer. Apply the sealer to the inside and outside of all the drawers to protect them from moisture, which also makes them easy to keep clean.
5. Separate the runner mechanism by flicking the plastic levers on the drawer runners. To fit the bottom drawers, runners will have to be mounted on the drawer supports on each side. On the cabinet side, the support blocks, with fitted 13mm wide runners, will clear the door hinges easily. On the other side of the drawer, the support blocks should be fixed to base of the cabinet to support the drawers. Do not attach the support blocks to the base at this stage.
6. To fit the cabinet part of the runners, measure and draw a line 30mm from and parallel to the bottom edge of each block. Screw the runners to the support blocks, aligning the screws with 30mm lines and keeping the front of runner 2mm set back from the front. Remember to make left and right handed assemblies for each drawer.
7. Fit drawer components to each side of the drawer so that the screws will be on a line 27mm from the bottom of drawer, with the runners sitting flush at front. Once assembled, this will give you a 3mm clearance under drawer. Clip the drawer runners back together (complete with support blocks on one side) and test to ensure smooth operation.
8. Remove the drawers, unscrew the drawer runner from the support blocks in order to secure the support block to the base of the cabinet. Also secure the other side support block to the side of cabinet. Screw down the support block into the base after drilling a long pilot hole.
9. Mark lines 25mm from the top and bottom, and 2mm in from the front. Screw the cabinet part of the drawer runners on these lines. Attach the block with the two runners to the cabinet. Use 19mm spacers to get the right height. Repeat the measurements to screw the drawer component to the drawer. Push in the drawer and make sure it runs easily and smoothly.
Good to know
When fitting the upper drawers, the shelf may not be strong enough to support the drawer without sagging. For this reason, make the drawers narrower and attach two drawer runners to the side of the cabinet on a larger support block.
Article courtesy of www.home-dzine.co.za.